“Only eight rupees to the tailor, only twenty-two cents!” they would say, triumphantly translating everything into American currency; and while the shopping was converted into dollars, tips to the servants could be calculated in local currency: “fifteen hundred rupees, is he mad? Give him one hundred, even that’s too much”
“They are so scared they’ll get taken advantage of because of their wealth, they try and bargain down on the cheapest room”
From Kiran Desai’s “The Inheritance of Loss”
That was me. Foreign exchange rates – once at the recesses of my mind – now at the very forefront and a seeming second voice evaluating every transaction. But it wasn’t the price of the room in the guesthouse I had an issue with. Bargaining with taxi drivers – this was my battleground.
You say 8 cedis (approximately CAD 4)? I say 4.
This foreigner is not about to take a hit…
And the debate begins.
I didn’t often see taxi drivers beyond the single dimension of their occupation. The grounds for our interaction were limited solely to when I needed to venture from A to B.
So when our Acumen course encouraged an exploration of empathy, I took it as my opportunity to redefine my ‘battleground’.
Let me tell you a bit about Ibrahim.
He wears a mischievous grin, slender and poised, with a beard he always makes a point to joke about – he calls himself mini-Osama (I’m not about to get into the politics of his humour!).
I had hopped into his car on more than one occasion. And with time, our interactions grew more amicable and easy. As casual banter, greetings in the morning, and a joke or two here and there came to define our relationship, I no longer fixated or debated the three or four cedis he sought when dropping me. It’s funny what a little bit of familiarity can do.
But really, I still didn’t know anything about this man’s life or any of the other taxi drivers I passed by on a daily basis. I had often wondered how they managed to make it work. Especially in a comparatively small town like Yendi, where most people walk, take bicycles, or ride along on motos, I couldn’t imagine a reliable revenue stream. Along with my questions were a series of assumptions and misconceptions. Often times, I would see them sitting around, chatting with each other. And my mind would say…what the heck are you doing? Why are you just sitting there? Do something! Be productive! (Of course, I had no idea what I expected them to do or what I had imagined as an image of productivity…)
Thankfully, I’ve had an opportunity to clarify some of my perspectives and learn a few lessons in the process.
Here’s what I didn’t know:
Ibrahim is a farmer. Before my eyes have even opened for the day, he has spent hours working the land. Yams are his speciality.
He has 5 daughters, all of whom he is putting through school. It isn’t easy but he firmly believes it is only by God’s grace and provision that he survives.
Every week, he pays 70 GHC to the owner of the taxi. That means, each day, he is should be making 10 GHC. Some days are good, others are not – market days are usually the best. Each day, he will save if he can. And like many others in his taxi rink, he will endeavour to deposit savings at the local banks.
Sometimes, they get together and take part in what they called, adashi. That is, at the end of a given time frame (be it weekly or monthly), everybody in the group puts forward the decided amount into a pool. That pool of money goes to one person and the collection switches hands each round.
Clearly, being a “taxi driver” was just a small part of the story.
Today, I met enterprising, intelligent men. Men who worked hard to make ends meet but slowed down to just be – to live each day with the confidence that their efforts would be enough; God was on their side.
Today, I met men who held their dignity in their ability to somehow, make it work.
Today, I met men who exemplified the grace to give a cedi or two when it was needed and who had the humility to ask when their own needs arose.
Today, I was presented (yet again) with a teaching of reciprocity.
Today, I was reminded of the importance of just getting up, dressing up, and showing up – no matter what it is we are called to do in this life of ours.
Today, I was reminded that it wasn’t easy.
My battleground was re-defined. I will never know or fully understand the realities of Ibrahim’s life or the trials that may mark his every day. But I can share a small part of his daily walk.
And that’s a lesson in empathy.
I’m not about to go along with every absurd price put my way, but I am more inclined to step back, chuckle, reflect, and re-evaluate my response. One thing is for sure – I definitely don’t think the average taxi driver is out to get me – they’re likely just trying to make things work.
Every once in a while, we can endeavour to step outside our own skin. I ask you, how can empathy inform your own opinions and interactions?
Xox,
T
P.S. Kiran Desai explores some of the deepest contradictions of the human heart and puts words, feelings, and a semblance of sense into the complex queries of identity politics with a clarity I still can’t get over. If you haven’t already read “The Inheritance of Loss”, it’s definitely a book worth picking up!